28 Aug, 2023
Kering's unexpected acquisition of a 30% stake in Valentino in July signaled a new phase for Italian fashion. Amidst a growing camaraderie among Italian entrepreneurs, the aim is twofold: safeguarding the nation's unique manufacturing prowess and countering the influence of European luxury conglomerates. While competing directly with giants like LVMH, Kering, and Richemont seems daunting, protecting local interests is gaining traction.
This trend is just beginning, driven by Italy's vast number of small and medium-sized fashion firms. These form the core of the "Made in Italy" ethos and partner with leading luxury brands globally. Entrepreneurs are gearing up for more consolidation, mergers, partnerships, and shared goals.
In 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna and Prada's partnership acquired a majority stake in cashmere expert Filati Biagioli Modesto. The collaboration continued with investments in Luigi Fedeli e Figlio, specializing in knitwear. Zegna and Prada have built robust pipelines and manufacturing in Italy.
Chanel and Brunello Cucinelli jointly acquired a stake in cashmere maker Cariaggi Lanificio. Notable fashion groups like Renzo Rosso's OTB and the Moncler Group have also emerged. Platforms like Gruppo Florence and MinervaHub supply premium Italian products to luxury brands, preserving expertise.
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